Underfloor heating systems installation

Make sure that you continue to apply pressure until the nut is hand tight so that the pipe has been gripped properly, then finish the job with a spanner. While a good fixing is obviously important, it is equally important that you do not over-tighten the nut too. A single turn should do. Repeat the process for all circuits, ensuring that each one is connected to both the flow and return for that particular loop. Double check that the isolating valves are off, then connect hoses to both the fill and drain point on the manifold.

The fill should be connected to a mains tap, while the drain should have adequate drainage to take any excess water. Before opening the valves on the fill and drain points, make sure that all of the circuit valves are closed. The adjustable balancing valves should be supplied in the off position, but it is worth double checking these too as it is important that we only flush one loop at a time.

Once all are shut off, open both the adjustable balancing and circuit valves on the furthest loop on the manifold. This is usually the left side of the manifold as you look at it when mounted, but check your manual if unsure.

When both are in the open position you can let the water run through by opening the fill and drain valves. This process will flush any debris out of the system as well as purge the circuit of air. Once you have a continuous flow of water from the drain outlet you can shut off that circuits valve which should immediately stop the water flowing from the drain outlet. If water continues to flow there could still be air in the system, so open up the valve and try again.

Continue along the manifold until all loops have been flushed and filled. Then you can close the fill and drain valves and shut off the water supply. Open all of the circuit and adjustable balancing valves by turning them anti-clockwise and attach a pressure testing pump to the fill inlet. Pump up the pressure to two bar for 10 minutes and check for any leaks or drops in pressure.

If everything seems okay you can up the pressure to 10 bar and repeat the checks made previously for a further 10 minutes. Providing all is well, the pressure can then be dropped down to 6 bar as it is now time to begin screeding the floor. The system must remain under pressure during screeding. When you begin screeding it is worth keeping in mind that the pressure shown on the gauge will probably increase.

This is due to the fact that the sand and cement mix will heat up as it cures, causing the water in the pipes to expand.

It is the responsibility of the client to ensure that all relevant information is supplied and to ensure that any design work from Uponor is suitable for the particular purpose. Facebook Twitter.

Spam Comments Will Be Deleted. Learn more. Widely used in Scandinavia where outside temperatures are regularly freezing, underfloor heating is increasingly being viewed in Britain as a cost-efficient method of heating various rooms within a house where a comfortable temperature might be difficult to maintain, such as a kitchen or bathroom. The fact that is invisible and does not affect the clean-lined look of a room in the same way that a radiator would, in addition to lack of maintenance and care it needs in order to work effectively, also makes it an attractive option for homeowners.

Download the PDF guide here. Underfloor heating is not a difficult thing to install yourself, as long as you have some basic DIY experience and the time to complete the job in one go, rather than pulling up the floor and then having to leave it for a week. You can do the bulk of the initial work, but you will probably need an electrician or plumber, depending on the system you opt for, to connect the system to the mains. There are two main types of underfloor heating for homeowners to choose between: wet or electric.

Wet underfloor heating systems use warm water to create the heat, sourced from the central heating system, while an electric system uses coils powered from the mains. Wet heating systems see water pumped through pipes that are laid on the subfloor under the top surface of the floor. The system reduces the cost of water heating compared to systems that involve radiators, as it needs the water to be heated at a lower temperature to work effectively. Wet heating systems are most easily installed where the floor can be pulled up and then put back into place — for this reason, it may be best suited to extensions or new builds.

For the same reason, it may be best to restrict this type of system to ground floor rooms, but upper levels are certainly not off-limits. Underfloor heating systems powered by electricity take the form of coils attached to or embedded into mesh mats that are rolled out and connected together underneath the floor.

They are then linked up to the thermostat and the mains power supply so that they can be used. They are cheap to install, but will cost more to run than wet systems, so they may be more suited to small rooms or areas. Regardless of the type of underfloor heating system you choose or the type of floor you are installing it under, you should ensure that the rooms you're going to install it in are properly insulated so that the effect of the heat is not immediately negated.

With electric systems, extended warranties are usually in the order of one year for the thermostats, which are easily replaceable, and 10 years for the heating cables, which are not. Lifetime warranties are also available with some brands.

When looking at warranties, do ensure that the company backing it has some substance. A number of online companies have sprung up offering extended warranties on their systems, but if they are no longer in existence when the system fails then that warranty will be worthless. As an alternative to underfloor heating, you could consider both skirting board systems and wall panel heating. Wet or electric skirting heating systems are a great option.

Wet systems can be used with heat pumps as well as conventional boilers due to their large surface area and the even distribution of heat around rooms. Direct electric versions are easier and simpler to install into properties with no existing gas or pipework, but are more expensive to run. However, their fast response times and even heat distribution does offset some of the additional costs when compared to other forms of electric heating. Variotherm modular wall and ceiling heating panels are a solution for rooms where underfloor heating is not an option, whether in renovations or new builds.

They are easily adaptable for walls, sloping ceilings and complex roof structures. Sarah is a freelance journalist and editor writing for websites, national newspapers, and magazines. She loves testing the latest home appliances, revealing the trends in furnishings and fittings for every room, and investigating the benefits, costs and practicalities of home improvement. It's no big surprise that she likes to put what she writes about into practice, and is a serial house revamper.

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